Celebrities Drawn in Pencil

Shakira

Rihanna

Michael Jackson

Angelina Jolie

Brad Pitt

Mel Gibson

Keira Christina Knightley

Jack Nicholson

Patrick Swayze

Roman Polanski

Morgan Freeman

Catherine Zeta Jones

Charlize Theron

Kasia Cichopek

Colin Farrell

Diane Kruger

Sean Connery

Meg Ryan

How To Care a PetSpider

While many people may find tarantulas disgusting or terrifying, you might be one of the few who find them completely fascinating! If you've ever wanted to keep a tarantula as a pet, here's how to get started...The important thing to remember is that not all tarantulas are created equal!

Steps

1. 1
   Consider and evaluate your experience level with tarantulas. Some tarantulas are easier to care for than others. If you haven't owned a tarantula before, you might want to start with one that is easy to care for and not very aggressive.
   
   
   • Species like the Common Pink toe (Avicularia Avicularia), Costa Rican Stripe Knee (Aphonopelma Seemanni), Chilean Rose (Grammostola Rosea), The Curly Hair (Brachypelma Albopilosum) the Mexican Redknee Tarantula (Brachypelma Smithi), and several other members of the Brachyphelma (although not all) are great starter species. Most are fairly docile and don't require much special attention.
   • Some of the more interesting tarantulas require past experience with tarantulas, but can have a lot of show quality. Species such as the Goliath Birdeater (Theraphosa Blondi), Cobalt Blue (Haplopelma Lividum), and Usambara Orange Baboon (Pterinochilus sp.) are all beautiful species of tarantulas. However along with many others they can be extremely aggressive and require a lot of special attention. Some species of tarantulas including Haplopelma and Poecilotheria have reportedly significantly dangerous venom. Side effects vary, but are usually limited to itchiness and swelling at the bite site and intense pain. Some blistering may occur as well. People with asthma should be cautious when dealing with such spiders as another side effect is labored breathing which might bring on an asthma attack. There have been reports of cardiac failure and coma as a result of bites from some tarantulas. If you are not experienced with keeping tarantulas, please, please, stick to the basic, docile, beginner species above.
2. 2
   
   
   Determine how much room you have for your tarantula. Most tarantulas don't need much room. If you purchase your tarantula as a baby (spiderling) they can live for months in a medium sized pill bottle or a small deli cup like one you would get blue cheese in from a chicken wing restaurant. Usually, if you buy a tarantula from an online dealer, they will send it in a little vial. You can keep the spider/spiderling in that vial until it reaches a molt that will make it too big for the container. As your tarantula grows, you might want to move up to a clear but clean margarine container. If you do purchase a spiderling, make sure you can adapt the heat source as it grows to the changing containers. Something else to consider is whether or not you are buying an arboreal (tree dweller) or terrestrial (ground dweller) tarantula. Arboreals need taller and larger tanks with a "tree" of sorts so so it's able to climb, where as terrestrials will make a small burrow for their homes in the material in the bottom. It is recommended that beginners start with terrestrials. However, a fall will is much more likely to hurt and even kill a terrestrial than an arboreal (although handling is not recommended for either species).
   
   
   • Species like the Common Pink Toe (Avicularia Avicularia), Costa Rican Stripe Knee (Aphonopelma Seemanni), Chilean Rose (Grammostola Rosea), The Curly Hair (Brachypelma Albopilosum), Mexican Redknee Tarantulas (Brachypelma Smithi), Cobalt Blue (Haplopelma Lividum), and Usambara Orange Baboon (Pterinochilus sp.) will all fit well into a 5 gallon aquarium or a medium/large Kritter Keeper when fully grown.
   • Some species like The Goliath Birdeater (Theraphosa Blondi) can have up to a 12" leg span, that's a spider the size of a dinner plate. It will need a significantly larger tank of 20 - 40 gallons.
3. 3
   Choose a reputable tarantula dealer. Some pet stores sell tarantulas and have great experience caring for them. Many tarantulas are available from online dealers if you can't find a local dealer with what you want. They are normally shipped as young spiderlings and are normally captive bred. If your local pet store has just 3 or 4 tarantulas (in case someone is interested in them) then you might want to look for someone with a bit more experience (unless you're experienced and want to rescue a neglected tarantula or educate the pet store).
4. 4
   
   
   Choose a healthy tarantula. Tarantulas that are curled up in the corner of the tank or have their legs tucked underneath them (tarantula death pose) are not very healthy tarantulas. If you see a tarantula standing over the water dish, then there are two possibilities: it's having a drink and you will be able to see it drinking or it's too dry and the tarantula is trying to take advantage of the added humidity of the water. Tarantulas that are laying on their backs with their legs up in the air should be okay, as they are probably getting ready to molt (shed their skin). You should probably wait a few days after this happens before buying a tarantula that has molted, as they don't need the added stress. Tarantulas (depending on the species) should be standing with their legs distributed evenly around it in a circle, or with its legs pointed forward and backwards.
5. 5
   Check for injury. Tarantulas, especially wild caught tarantulas, are easily injured when captured or while contained and shipped to stores. Some wild caught tarantulas can have parasites, so it is almost always a better idea to get a captive bred tarantula. Make sure your tarantula has all 8 legs and 2 pedipalps (like arms) at the front. Check for injuries on the body and the abdomen of the tarantula. If the pet store has a lot of experience dealing with tarantulas, they should be able to help you with this.
6. 6
   Research the cost of a tarantula before you buy one. Some tarantulas are inexpensive and some are very expensive. Spiderlings are much less expensive than a fully grown tarantula. Different stores often have different prices for the same species of tarantula. You may want to start with a less expensive species while you are learning, then move to a more expensive one. It's easier to take the loss of a $20 pink toe than it is a $300 Ecuadorian Birdeater Tarantula.
7. 7
   Shop around. Visit the website of a online dealer and print their price list. Take this with you to the pet store so you can compare prices. Maybe you will find a deal. If they don't have the price you'd like to pay, show them the internet price list to convince them to lower theirs.
   
   
   
   

Tips

• Buy the tank at the same time as your tarantula. Some pet stores will give you a deal on your tarantula if you buy the tank and supplies to go with the tarantula. Just be sure you've compared pricing on the tank and supplies ahead of time as well.
• Get a good book on tarantulas. Books can cover a wide range of topics on your tarantulas and maybe cover something you've missed. You can never do enough research on tarantulas.
• Try to purchase a female tarantula. They usually live longer than males. Some species of tarantulas can live up to 30+ years, but the males might only live 2-5+ years.
• Give your tarantula a good bottom layer (though not too deep) in its container. Materials such as peat or vermiculite as well as similar materials work well because of their ability to hold moisture to help with the humidity level as well as their similarity to the ground where a tarantula would live in the wild.
• Make sure you know the Latin name for your species of tarantula. Many tarantulas share common names so you might think you have one species when you really have another. Latin names or scientific names only apply to one species of tarantula and make research much easier.
• Try to find captive bred tarantulas. Many pet stores only sell wild caught tarantulas because people like to start with a large tarantula (small spiderlings are not as eye catching as a 6" Chilean Rose. It takes a long time for a tarantula to grow and requires some extra attention, so large captive bred tarantulas are not common in pet stores. However, by buying a captive bred one, you can help keep wild tarantulas in the wild.
• Use Google to convert common names to latin names or vice versa. This also gives you an opportunity to confirm what the tarantula should look like.

Warnings

• Let your tarantula sit for a week in its new home before disturbing it. Changing the environment is stressful to tarantulas.
• Tarantulas do not mix well with dogs and cats, which can easily injure or kill a tarantula. Also a bite can be fatal to your cat or dog as they are more susceptible to the venom. Although all spiders are venomous, a human has yet to die as a result of a tarantula bite. Nevertheless, it's better to be safe than sorry.
• Although some species of tarantulas can be handled, holding a tarantula is not recommended. Tarantulas are extremely delicate. Tarantulas can be very unpredictable and a drop from a few inches can rupture the abdomen and your tarantula will suffer a slow, painful death. Also do not poke your tarantula, as there are certain areas that are extremely delicate and if you touch them, your tarantula will become extremely vicious in a matter of seconds. If you have to hold it, let it rest on both of your hands, but try not to cup your hands too much, keep them flat.
• Don't try to prank somebody with your tarantula-they might end up killing it out of fear.
• Make sure the substrate you use for your tarantula enclosure does not contain pesticides that may harm your pet.
• Its always handy to have some kind of cure against an tarantula bite, in case things could go wrong.
• Make sure you know certain behaviors of the tarantula you intend to buy, even though not all tarantulas do the same things, its always good to know what your tarantula is capable of and its habits.
  • (example: That you don't think its dying because it doesn't drink or eat as much as you thought, take an closer look before you act)
• Never place an new tarantula outside of its tank, its stressful for an tarantula to change its natural environment, doing that might cause it to panic or suddenly become aggressive and might result into an bite.

Related wikiHows

• How to Care for a Tarantula
• How to Catch a Snake
• How to Care for a Pet Rat
• How to Give Your Hermit Crab a Bath
• How to Tell if a Turtle Is Male or Female
• How to Care for Gerbils

Buy a Horse

Buying a horse is a big investment, and owning one takes a lot of time and money, but it does have so many great, memorable rewards. Before you buy a horse, you should make sure you have found one that fits your personality and other possible riders, and is suitable for what you want to do. There are a lot of pitfalls that may not only be expensive, but heartbreaking. Find the right horse and you can have a long, happy relationship.

Steps for Preparation

1. Make sure you really want a horse, and if you are having to read this, try to contact a trainer and let them know that you plan on buying a horse in the future. This will catch their attention as you might be a long term client, they already know the ins and outs of the horse world, and will be a great help. Make sure you realize the level of commitment required and the effect it will have on you and your family.
2. If you're getting regular or any type of riding lessons, be sure to tell your instructor or coach that you are looking to buy a horse or pony. Often they have clients that may be selling a horse, and your instructor may be able to help you try a particular horse out.
3. Learn all you can about horse management. This should include basic horse health and equine first aid. See Related wikiHows. Also go to your local library and look for all the horse related books.
4. Learn your local laws. From equine liability to whether there is a local tax on livestock that can reproduce (mares & stallions), to fire code laws for stables, it helps to have all the information.
5. Learn about your local resources. Find out about boarding facilities, tack shops, feed stores, farmers that produce hay, vets and farriers are in your area, and where the nearest equine hospital and horse ambulance service is.
6. Make sure that you have access to a feed supplier, as a horse is a 'real life garden disposal unit', and they need to be fed. Usually a local farrier is able to include you in his or her rounds, but make sure that you have phone numbers of a few, in case you can't get hold of your regular one.
7. A reputable equine vet is essential. You will want to have Experienced horsemen (and or women) to be able to call to ask for advice and in the begining, look over your horse.
8. Figure what you are going to pay for your horse’s upkeep. Go to a feed stockist and price the basic feed (hay, chaff and pellets), then add the cost of a saddle, bridle, saddle cloth, lead, halter, bit, grooming kit, and water containers. (This would be an outright cost, but the upkeep would be in addition to this). Include the cost of transport if you do not own your own horse float or truck, as well as stable.
9. Don't forget to budget for:
   • Horse food (Hay and some kind of feed)
   • Decent tack (saddle and bridle)
   • Regular vet visits
   • Deworming
   • Shots
   • Regular farrier visits (shoeing or trimming)
   • Emergency treatment
   • Riding lessons
   • Training
   • Equipment and supplies
   • All appropriate medical check ups and supplies
10. Find a suitable place to keep your horse. Keeping your horse on your own or rented land should be done only by knowledgeable and experienced horsepeople. Livery/boarding yards are more suitable for a first-time horse owner. Look in ads in local papers, equestrian magazines and on the Internet. Ask in local tack shops and riding schools. If a yard (stable) has no spaces, ask them to recommend another yard.
11. Visit a number of boarding facilities and ask about hours, the cost, feeding schedule, as well as what you'll be expected to do. If it's rough board, you will have to feed, water, and clean your horse's area every day yourself. If it is full board, all you have to do is pay! Choose one that meets your horse's needs (e.g. safe, all-year turnout), where you feel comfortable (e.g. friendly people), and that meets your needs (e.g. an indoor school, showers) in that order. Some barns cater to young riders, while others prefer adults-only.
12. Secure a space at a yard you like. At good yards spaces are rarely available and fill fast. Be prepared to pay a weekly/monthly fee to keep the space reserved.
13. If you plan to have your horse at your house, have an expert help you plan the fencing. Make sure the fencing is secure and is taller than 1.5 meters and that there is no wire or anything that the horse can injure itself on. Do not use barbed wire. Ensure you have an adequate water container to supply large amounts of water, have a separate feed dish away from the water.

Searching for Your Horse

1. Make a list of what you want the horse to be. This can include, size, gender, age, health, discipline and training, color, price, breed, and pedigree.
2. Tell people that you are looking for a horse. Word of mouth is the best way to find a horse. Tell people like instructors, farriers, vets and tack shop owners. These people have a lot of contact with the horse owners.
3. Advertise the fact you are looking for a horse. ‘Horse Wanted’ signs can go up in local tack shops, vet clinics, local and national horse magazines, and the Internet.
4. Look for for sale ads in local tack shops, vet clinics, local and national horse magazines, and the Internet (dreamhorse.com works well).
5. Ask around for a dealer with a good reputation.
6. If you are new with owning horses, a good bet would be buying one 'used' horse which would usuallyhave a better temperment and the horse would have been ridden already. If you are buying a horse like this, make sure the rider has a similar riding level to yours or else danger may occur. The average family horse will often make great horses for new riders.

Assessing a Horse

1. Make a list of things you want to ask the owner. For example:
   • Confirm everything in the advert; age, height, colour, breed etc
   • History and breeding
   • Competition and medical history
   • Reason for sale
   • Any vices or bad habits (biting, kicking, bucking, cribbing)
   • The horse’s current management
   • Any security markings and registrations (microchipping, breed societies)
   • If tack/equipment is included or can be bought cheaply from the current owner
   • How well the horse travels
2. Contact the owner, of any horse that matches your criteria.
3. Ask as many questions as possible to avoid wasted trips to view unsuitable horses.
4. Check with any competition bodies or hunts to see if the owner's claims of wins, etc. are true. If the horse is security marked you may be able to check to see if the horse is stolen. Find out about stolen horse databases in your country. See External Links.
5. Visit the horse at least twice!
   • First visit Turn up a little earlier than agreed and try to see the horse handle in the stable/field. Ask to see him in different situations depending on what you want to do with him, and what the owner has claimed the horse can do; i.e. ridden by the owner/a child and by you, in traffic, in the stable and paddock, with other horses etc. If tack/equipment is included in the price, also inspect that.
   • Second visit If you think the horse is worth a second visit, take an experienced friend or professional with you on one of the visits. Someone that knows your level of riding is best, like your instructor. Be prepared to pay for the time of a professional. When you find a horse you like, the best advice is "sleep on it". Don't just accept the horse and hand over the money. On the second visit, maybe try negotiating the price.
   • Get The Horse On Trial Though many people do not like to have their horse on trial, it makes the decision making a lot easier. It allows you to ride the horse for 2 weeks, having it at your house, and it also allows you to take it to Pony Club or to a Show and see how it performs. Discuss this with the owner of the horse, you may be able to come up with a decision. (Most trials are a 1 or 2 week term, but some can be up to 1 month or more, in this time you are responsible for the horse, including financially.)

Buying the Horse

1. Tell the owner if you want to buy. Agree on a price, subject to vetting, and ask to put down a deposit (10% of the price is fair) to secure the horse.
2. Have the vet come and check the horse before you put full money down, this is expensive, but most insurance companies demand a certificate anyway.
3. Find out what the horse has been fed. You must change the diet slowly over a week or two. Buy feed from the current owner if necessary.
4. Insure the horse before you transport him.
5. Prepare a safe area, either a stable or a paddock with friendly horses. Get any basic equipment for feeding, grooming, traveling and some rugs if the horse needs them. You may get some of these with the horse.
6. Find a way to transport your horse to your horse's new home. If you don’t have a trailer or horsebox you can hire them with a driver or self-drive. Find out the law about transporting horses, and if your driving licence covers it.
7. Allow your horse to settle in peacefully, and be careful introducing it to new horses. Try and keep to the horse's old routine as closely as possible for the first week.

Negotiating

• Don’t choose a horse just because it’s cheap. A problem horse is not for a beginner and they will cost more (in terms of money and sanity) in the long run.
• Less attractive horses, horses with superficial scars or growths, horses of a less popular color and part, cross or unknown breeds, often go cheaper while not being less suitable, unless you intend to show.
• Many owners are more willing to give you tack and equipment or transport the horse for you, than lower the price.
• Buy at the end of the competition season, in or at the start of winter, as prices will be lower (with the exception of hunters, which are best bought in spring or summer)
• Aim to pay the selling price, but ask if they would take a particular figure (10%-20% under the asking price).
• Remember, if you already have a saddle, you will still need a bridle that fits the horse. If the owner is selling the horse with tack included, you can always sell the equipment you do not need, and this way, you are not paying for equipment you're not going to use.

Alternatives to Buying

• Look into adopting a horse for a reputable rescue organisation. There will still most likely be an adoption fee. You will not legally own the horse, and will not be able to breed or sell him. If you can no longer care for the horse the rescue organisation will take him back.
• Loaning a horse is similar to adopting one, but the owner will be a private owner. Loans can be long or short term.
• Sharing a horse involves caring and riding a horse for part of the week as well as making a financial contribution to the horses up-keep. The horse is usually owned by one person.
• Work for rides is similar to sharing a horse, but no money passes hands.
• Leasing a horse is another alternative to buying a horse.

Tips

• Remember, a good horse will live a very long time. Make sure you think about your horse five years or so from when you buy. Its not about today and tomorrow, its about the many years you will spend time together.
• Look at more than one horse!
• Keeping a horse on your own land is cheaper but requires a bigger commitment as there are fewer people to help you. It makes going on holiday very difficult.
• Do not fall in love with a horse's color. Good horses and bad ones come in all colors.
• Don't be too picky about height. A small, round cob may be more suitable for long legs, than a tall narrow thoroughbred. If you're buying a horse for your child, don't buy the horse just because it's small. Make sure it is trained and suitable for your child. Would you rather have your child riding a green pony or a gentle, calm draft horse?
• Ask if the horse has been measured or if the owner is guessing the height, especially if the horse/pony is close to pony height and you intend to compete or show.
• Offer to let the owners view where you will be keeping the horse and ask your instructor/local hunt etc. to act as referees. Show the owner proof of any equine achievements, such as competition wins or qualifications.
• Tell the owner if you don’t want the horse. It is polite and lets them know what’s happening.
• If the owner has a trailer or horsebox, ask if they can transport the horse for you. If you officially take ownership of the horse at the end of the journey, you avoid laws about accepting money for transporting another’s horse.
• Beauty is nothing on an unsuitable or unsound horse. They will also be more expensive.
• When budgeting the price of a horse’s upkeep, work out how much a horse will cost for a month at the most expensive time in the year (usually winter), add 50% and x12.
• Build a network of horse people. You’ll need them!
• If you really want a horse just for a pet, not riding, consider getting a miniature horse. They are great companions, but you must be sure you can provide very good care and exercise.
• Try bring a horse riding friend or your riding instructor with you so they can help you find the perfect horse.

Warnings

• Do not buy an old, disease-prone, untrained (if you know you will not be able to train it) or dangerous horse just because he "is so cute and needs a good home". The old horse will not be around very long and, like the disease-prone horse, could cost you more than he's worth in vet bills. Older horses can be a great beginner horse for first time horses or little children. The untrained and dangerous horses will not earn their keep, and someone could get hurt.
• Make sure you know the difference between a gelding and a stallion. Some crazy people will get rid of an unwanted stallion by trying to convince a less experienced horse person that he is a gelding. Don't be dumb enough to fall for that one!
• If the owners don’t want you to view the horse with a professional, or allow you to get the horse vetted, walk away. Chances are, there's something very wrong with the horse.
• Do not let a horse dealer talk you in to buying an unsuitable. If you hear him say something like "Well, when he's working, you can't even notice the crooked foot", walk away.
• Not all dealers have yours, or the horse's, the best interests in mind. Go to dealers by recommendation, and walk away if you are unhappy with anything. Check that all the horses on the yard are healthy and happy.
• Don't keep a horse alone. If you are keeping your new horse at your home, get him or her a buddy - perhaps an old retired horse, a goat, a mini horse, or another similar creature. Horses are very social and it is near-abusive to deny them socialization.
• If you decide to loan or share a horse or if you take one on trial, make sure you have a contract stating: how the horse should be cared for, where he should be kept and what activities he should be used for, and what will happen if the horse becomes sick or injured, or dies while in your care.
• Be sure to get a Bill of Sale or at least a receipt when you buy the horse. Don't be embarrassed to ask - chances are you don't know the sellers well!
• When looking at horses to buy, don't visit unless you are truly interested and can afford the said horse. You may end up with a broken heart, and you will have wasted the seller and the horse's time!
• When viewing, ask the owner to ride the horse before you try it. If the owner will not ride, regardless of the excuse, do not ride the horse.
• Horse ownership is a huge responsibility. Make sure you have enough support, money, time and knowledge to look after a horse.
• In the EU a horse must have a passport. The owner should hand this over to you. It is illegal if they don’t. Change the ownership on it as soon as possible.
• Moving home is a stressful time for a horse. Be sympathetic and don't ride that day. But start training and riding them the next day. They adjust quickly and will forget everything if all they do is have R&R. Start what you will be doing as soon as possible (Trail, Cart, Show, etc.)
• Buying a horse unseen (without going to view them) is not recommended. Even if you must go across the country or to another country, the cost is small compared to the price of buying and transporting the horse. If you do request photos and videos to see the horse walk & trot in a straight. Try to get someone you trust to view the horse.
• Buying a horse without getting him checked by the vet is not recommended. You will probably have to have it done anyway to get the horse insured.
• Buying from a sale or auction is not recommended for first-time owners without the services of a professional.

Things You'll Need

• A plan
• An extreme desire to own a horse
• Parents or partner that are willing to let you have a horse
• A place to keep your horse and companion animal(s)
• Supplies to care for your horse, including a regular, reliable income
• Horse feed and feeding equipment
• Rugs
• Tack if intending to ride
• Driving equipment if intending to drive
• Grooming kit
• Tools to muck out if the horse is to be stabled
• A trainer and/or knowledge of horse training and behavior
• A kind loving heart/soft spot for horses

Related

• How to Get Free Information About Horses
• How to Look After a Horse
• How to Know What Is Normal for a Horse
• How to Give First Aid to a Horse
• How to Make Money to Board Your Horse if You're Under 16 Years Old
• How to Take Care of a Horse
• How to Feed Your Horse Vitamins Properly
• How to Find a Good Fly Spray for a Horse
• How to Choose the Right Pet for You
• How to Ride a Horse or Pony
• How to Overcome Your Fear of Horses
• How to Select a Breyer Model Horse
• How to Buy the Right Horse
• How to Make a Horse Feel Comfortable at a Horse Show
• How to Find a Good Horse Trainer